Installation

The expansion gap between the wooden floor and the walls and attached objects depends on the size of the room and the indoor climate, preferably 10-20 mm. Expansion gaps are covered with floor slats or filled with elastic joint compound in a suitable color (in this case, a 5 mm wider expansion gap must be left). When installing the ship's deck, the expansion joints are filled with special mastic or with slats of the same type of wood, the groove side of which is left against the floor and filled with mastic.

There is no special need for footfall reduction and shock absorption (rubber/cork or cork board roll material), as walking on a solid wood floor does not produce noise as with laminate floors and wooden parquet floors.

When gluing the table, it is recommended to use a special glue that ensures an elastic bond with the base surface. If the subfloor has a very high absorbency, it is recommended to prime the floor with a primer specially designed for this purpose (we recommend: Bostik MS Elastik for gluing). Use a string to make sure the first row is indeed straight. This is very important to achieve the final result. The glue is applied to the floor with a glue comb suitable for the table type. The glue is applied in 20-30cm increments - the glue strip must extend to join the boards together. The extent of application of the adhesive depends on the type of adhesive (drying speed), absorbency of the substrate, temperature and humidity. Start the installation from the edge of the farthest wall, the first board towards the grooved wall. Place suitable distance wedges between walls and other fixed obstacles and floorboards. Leave an expansion joint around the entire perimeter of the floor (10-20mm). Remove the spacers the next day. Use a heavy hammer to knock the boards together. To avoid damaging the table top, use a kick block or a 30 cm long piece of table. When installing a ship's deck, it is generally not necessary to use a hammer. Stand on the already installed floor during installation. In the case of a concrete subfloor, the floorboards are only glued to the subfloor. For plywood and OSB subfloors, use screws in addition to glue. Attach the floorboards to the base (plywood, OSB) with screws at a 45° angle to the floor from the top of the bump. All floorboards must be pressed carefully onto the adhesive pad to achieve a strong bond. If the subfloor is uneven, the adhesion of the adhesive can be significantly reduced. Install the last two boards at the same time. The last board must be sawn beforehand according to the width of the room.

When gluing floorboards directly to the substrate, it is not recommended to glue the groove-groove connection. After gluing, it is advisable to place a weight on the floor (in the case of a concrete subfloor) (for example, sandbags or unused desks). If the glue gets on the surface of the table, it must be removed immediately with a damp cloth to prevent discoloration of the wood. After gluing the table, the floor must be allowed to dry for 1-7 days, depending on the glue used. Only then can the final sanding and finishing be started.

When attaching the boards to the layers, it is recommended to use screws measuring 3x45 to 4.2x55mm instead of nails. The boards are attached to the layers with screws at an angle of 45° to the floor from the top of the bulge. Fixing the boards with screws reduces the possibility of the floor creaking and you can easily pick up the floorboards if necessary. The screw holes can be pre-drilled, but it is not absolutely necessary. Longitudinal joints must not be glued when installing boards with screws. The ends of the boards can be glued together, so you get tighter end joints. In a floor installed with screws, each board dries/expands independently. Therefore, small cracks may appear in the floor during the heating period. They disappear in the summer, when there is no need for heating and the humidity in the room rises.

If the first rows cannot be mechanically attached, then 1...3 rows are glued down the night before. Then by morning, the first rows will be firmly fixed and you can start installing the main part: each new laid down parquet slat should be tightly clamped with the previous one .

In the case of underfloor heating, 16mm thick floorboards with a maximum width of up to 130mm must be used. This is because a 20mm thick and wider floorboard is sensitive to drying out and injuries due to drying are more likely to occur. The deck floor is generally 10mm thick and made of teak wood, which is not as sensitive as other types of wood and is ideal for a heated floor.. Floor heating must spread heat over the entire surface, the surface temperature (also under carpets and furniture) must never exceed 27 °C. When varnishing, you must definitely use a primer in the case of underfloor heating, because otherwise the floorboards will stick together when varnished with a strong varnish. In the future, it must also be ensured that the adjustment of the underfloor heating does not take place too abruptly - it should not take place faster than 3- - 4° C per day.

NB! Beech and maple floorboards are not recommended for underfloor heating.

Immediately after installing the floorboard, the floor must be completely covered with construction cardboard. This is necessary to prevent soiling of the surface before finishing.

After the deck is installed, the joints are finished with special mastic. If unsuitable mastics are used, the mastic may not adhere to the wood surface and after a while water can penetrate the floor. Before applying the mastic to the joint, the edges of the joint are taped with tape, which is removed after the joint is filled. The drying time of the mastic also depends on the width and depth of the joint. Generally 2-4 days. After the joint mastic has completely dried, the floor is sanded until it is ready for finishing.

Since in humid rooms it is necessary to add a separate moisture resistance to the wood, we recommend finishing the deck floor with Glimtrex oil wax. Oil wax leaves the surface of the wood breathable, moisture comes out of the wood and at the same time prevents moisture from going from the surface to the wood. Wood finished with oil wax protects the wood from water, various liquids and dirt. At the same time, it is also necessary to take care of wood already finished with oil wax, ask the product representative for maintenance instructions.